Yamaha
R1/R6 instructions 03/12/08 Yamaha YZF-R1 2004-2008 / YZF-R6 2006-08
Installation guidelines: 1) Do not attempt this installation unless you
are skilled mechanic and are … … confident you can drill and tap (2)
holes in your frame. This is actually a simple operation, if performed
properly. The frame bracket serves as the drilling guide. 2) It is
essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all set screws and bolts. They will
come loose without it. 3) Remove the stock steering stabilizer and save
it should you ever decide …
1) Do not
attempt this installation unless you are skilled mechanic and are
confident you can drill and tap (2) holes in your frame. This is
actually a simple operation, if performed properly. The frame bracket
serves as the drilling guide. 2) It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on
all set screws and bolts. They will come loose without it. 3) Remove
the stock steering stabilizer and save it should you ever decide to sell
your bike later. 4) Remove the stock 36mm nut AND washer , that holds
the top triple clamp tight and save them too. Install the new aluminum
nut supplied in the kit with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 65ft.
lbs. or more. (Check your manual). 5) Install the new “triple clamp
damper mount” (TC mount), the part with 8 set screws in it , over the
main triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over
the back of the triple clamp. Tip to save time: Before installation,
using Loc-tite, start all the setscrews first, until flush with the
inside bore. 6) Try to have the TC mount as flush to the triple clamp
surface as possible. This part is machined precisely to fit over the
stock triple clamp. Due to the fact the stock triple clamp is cast, they
could vary is size and we have found that some might require “Slight”
filing on the back of the triple clamp or the TC mount to achieve “flush
mounting.” Remove or trim around any obstructions that might prevent
the TC mount from sitting down flush such as carbon fiber deco plates
etc. Call us if you not sure about any of this or if it looks like it
would require more than slight filing. We are here to help you. 7) The
groove machined into the nut is positioned so once the setscrews are
tightened, it will force the damper mount down against your triple
clamp. Some triple clamps are not flat which appears as though the
bracket is not all the way down. 8 ) Loc-tite and tighten the setscrews
evenly until they make contact with the groove and are secured tightly.
It’s a good idea to check the setscrews after the first ride as they
might seat into their final position and need re-tightening. 9) Note:
You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to
remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped
easily. (Loose setscrews protruding out the back can prohibit steering
ability. Keep them tight!) 10) Remove the stock-front-fuel-tank,
retaining bolt. The longer 6×40mm bolt must be used in our frame bracket
. 11) Temporarily install the frame bracket (without tightening yet),
as per the picture, and note if it makes any contact with the painted
forward tank shroud. Due to the variations of where the tank shroud
sits, some are closer than others, and if you want to avoid the frame
bracket touching the painted surface, YOU WILL NEED TO CHECK IT FIRST.
If you have interference, mark where it touches, and file slightly on
the underside of the frame bracket, to match your individual bike. We’ve
tried very hard to give as much clearance as possible, but each bike
varies slightly. 12) Once the clearance is OK, install the frame bracket
with the 6×40 Allen bolt provided. Center the bracket before tightening
the bolt, even though it can’t move much, you need to verify that it’s
straight before drilling. To verify if it’s straight or not, temporarily
position the stabilizer on the bike and hold the front wheel straight,
sit on the bike and be sure the linkarm of the stabilizer is straight on
the backbone of the bike while your aiming straight ahead.
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