Description Nancy J. Troy, "Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Fashion" The MIT Press | 2002-11-01 | ISBN: 0262201402, 0262701030 | 408 pages | PDF | 5,8 MB
In Couture Culture, Nancy Troy offers a new model of how art and
fashion were linked in the early twentieth century. Focusing on a leader
of the French fashion industry, Paul Poiret, Troy uncovers a logic of
fashion based on the tension between originality and reproduction that
bears directly on art historical issues of the period. This tension lies
at the heart of haute couture, which, although designed for the
wealthy, was also intended to be adapted for sale in department stores
and other clothing outlets that catered to a broader consumer market. Troy examines the relationships
between elite and popular culture, the professional theater and the
fashion show, as well as the presumed polarity between Orientalist and
classical sensibilities. She shows how Poiret and other designers
patronized the arts and presented themselves as artists not only to sell their individual dresses to wealthy clients but also to promote the mass production of their designs. The contradictions she uncovers suggest surprising parallels
with the readymades and fashion-related work of Marcel Duchamp, who
explored the questions of originality and authenticity raised by couture
culture during the 1910s and 1920s. In contrast to dominant accounts of
early twentieth-century art that have dismissed fashion as superficial,
fleeting, and feminized, Troy's more nuanced approach reveals
conceptual structures and marketing strategies shared by modern art and
fashion in these years.
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