Oilhead Maintenance Manual R850, R1100, R1150, R1200

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Section I – by Carl Kulow MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE … … 6
PARTS AND TOOL LIST…..7 Cold Engine and Drivetrain Procedures ALTERNATOR
BELT …..5 Introduction There are three main sections to this manual as
follows: Section I – by Carl Kulow This section consists of basic
maintenance procedures that were done on an R1150GS, 2001. Once you
remove the various plastic covers from an R, RT or RS, the procedures
should essentially be identical to those given here. Section II – by
Various Authors Generally, this section contains more detailed
instructions than those found in Section I, especially Stephen Karlan’s
very detailed write-ups. This section also contains procedures that are
not part of the normal maintenance schedule. Section III – by Rob
Lentini This section is the real masterpiece of this manual, containing
Rob Lentini’s “Zero = Zero” surging fix and other gems. Note to RT and
RS Riders: for many of the following procedures, you will need to remove
the side panels as described in your owners manual “Service and
Technical Booklet” except RT: instead of pulling the mirror off as the
manual says,…Cold Engine and
Drivetrain Procedures Check Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex –
4mm none Note: In most cases the alternator belt does not need to be
checked any more. Early models should have the pulley and belt upgrade
that came out a few years ago. Current recommendations are that the belt
is installed and adjusted, then not disturbed until 36K when
replacement is specified. 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black
plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle
hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Check the belt
for cracks or shredding. 4. Check the belt tension, quite tight, ~1/4″
deflection when you press on the center. Note: Paul Glaves suggests that
proper belt tension is when you can twist the belt ~90 degrees, midway
between the pulleys. If you can twist it more than 90 degrees, it is too
loose. If you cannot twist it 90 degrees, then it is too tight. 5.
Leave the cover off for the valve adjustment procedure on the next page.
Change Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm alternator belt
socket – 13mm ratchet wrench – 13mm torque wrench 1. Remove the four
bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of
the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight
down. 3. Loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, that hold the alternator –
one is on top and one is on each side, thus allowing the alternator to
pivot down. 4. Remove the old belt. (Some bikes have a pipe that traps
the belt – loosen it enough to get the old belt out and the new belt in)
5. Install the new belt being sure it is properly seated. 6. BMW calls
for a tensioning torque of 5.9 ft.lb. (8 Nm) on the adjuster bolt on the
left side of the bike. You have to get at this bolt from the alternator
side and you may have to lift the tank. Alternatively, you can pry the
alternator up with a large screwdriver to tension the belt. 7. Once the
belt is under proper tension, tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, to 15
ft.lb. (20 Nm). 8. Check the belt for proper tension (see above) and
proper seating alignment. 21 Hot Engine and Drivetrain Procedures (i.e.
normal operating temperature) Throttle Body Sync Tools Parts Twin Max or
carb stix none screwdriver, flat blade needle nose pliers wrench, 10mm
house fans Note: If you are doing this procedure for the first time, you
should seat the brass bypass screws and record the number of turns for
each. Return the screws to where you found them. Also make a note of the
number of threads at some reference point on the right throttle body
cable adjuster. All this is so you can get back to the same starting
point if you mess up. 1. Engine hot at the normal operating temperature
of 5 bars on the RID. 2. Bike on the centerstand, transmission in
neutral. Note: If you are experienced with this procedure, it only takes
a couple of minutes – including several double checks. If you have
never done a throttle body (TB) sync or your TB’s are really out of
sync, it could take much longer and you should place 1 or 2 house fans
blowing on your engine to help keep it from overheating. Note: You may
need to slacken the throttle body cables.


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